There really is a change in the air in November, it’s certainly no longer warm enough to head out without a coat. For creatures of the hedgerow it’s a final opportunity to gather in winter stores before bedding down to see the winter through. Plants take a similar approach, with their attention going to storing their sugars, in nuts and roots. It’s at this time of the year, therefore, with flowers gone and leaves falling ready to decay and feed the earth, that we turn to the roots, nuts and bark for our foraging. Among these there are a few that you may like to consider for freshly gathered winter skincare. As a little winter scavenger hunt, follow the suggestions below to look out for: a root, a nut, bark and a leaf. As my fifth foraging tip for November, one of the best things you can gather for your skin is a few calm moments in the fresh air!
Valerian root
Valeriana offficinalis
Valerian, also known as garden heliotrope, may have got its latin name from the verb ‘valere’, to be well. Known in Greek times, it was recommended by Hippocrates and has retained a reputation for calming and settling nerves throughout history.
A traditional remedy for nervous exhaustion, especially that brought on by too much excitement or overstimulation, it is most commonly used as a sleep aid and is sometimes referred to as ‘nature’s valium’. Valerian was given during World War II to those stretched to breaking point by repeat air raids, and in World War I those suffering from shell shock.
So, valerian root can be a helpful antidote to headaches and any overwrought seasonal stresses. If you want to benefit without consuming it directly, try creating an infusion to add to your bath. It combines really well with chamomile for a super-relaxing experience. Add a tablespoon of dried chamomile petals with half a tablespoon of dried valerian root to a pint of water and bring slowly to the boil; cover and leave overnight then the next day, draw a warm bath and add your steeped infusion.
You will notice a definite pungency to the valerian root. This quality was valued by monks who would include valerian root in perfumes. It was also instrumental (so we’re led to believe) in the Pied Piper’s ability to lure the rats away from Hamelin – it’s thought he stuffed the curiously, irresistibly-scented valerian root into his clothing. I’m not such a fan of the sweaty leather scent.
If you are harvesting your own root, take from plants that are at least two years old. They’re perennial so should continue to flourish with just a little of their root harvested. NB, don’t confuse Valeriana officinalis with red valerian (Centranthus ruber), a common garden and wayside plant but with no known use.
Walnuts
Juglans regia
Walnuts are another friend in helping get a good night’s sleep as they contain melatonin which promotes sleep and helps regulate it too. However, when pressed to extract walnut oil, they’re also great for your skin.
Packed with vitamin E, walnut oil is a good antioxidant to help against aging. Used over time it can also help reduce fine lines and wrinkles. Walnut oil’s fatty acid make up is dominated by linoleic acid, the omega-3 fatty acid that is great for soothing and softening the skin. There’s also a healthy amount of linolenic and oleic acids providing moisturising and skin-barrier repairing benefits. Added to this, walnut oil has antimicrobial qualities (from its vitamin B5, or panthenol) so helps skin health and may even support faster healing of wounds and be helpful in treating eczema and similar conditions.
As a high proportion winter skincare issues originate from dehydrated skin, it’s a good idea to start early ensuring skin is well moisturised and protected to reduce water loss. Walnut oil is a great ingredient to include in creating rich blend-it-yourself creams and balms.
Oak bark
Quercus Alba, Quercus robur
The white oak, Quercus Alba, is the variety most often used in skincare. It is believed to have antioxidant, soothing, antimicrobial and anti-aging benefits. It will absorb toxins and soothe irritated or swollen skin. High levels of the phenolic compounds, tannins and quercin in oak bark make it naturally astringent. Tree barks such as oak, with high tannins, may therefore be used in products for skin, scalp and hair. If you are using such a product, do try a patch test first as oak bark can be sensitising.
While oak bark is lovely to look out for and admire on a winter walk, be content to simply gather inspiration from it. When oak bark is used in skincare products, it has often been lab-grown using cell culture as a more sustainable approach than harvesting from the tree itself.
Oak trees have always been an inspiration to people, due to their longevity, strength and stature. Symbolising all this in a hand-held form, the acorn has been bestowed by many cultures with associations of prosperity, strength and potential (‘from little acorns …’). You might choose to pick up an acorn and carry it for protection, or as a sign of hope for spring to come, or you could follow the Nordic tradition of placing it on a windowsill, to protect during winter storms.
Ivy
Hedera helix
Ivy is one of those ubiquitous plants that we almost overlook, it’s with us everywhere and through every season. It’s for this reason that it has been a constant through all traditional festivals, cycling through the death and rebirth of the wheel of the year. Ivy is a great reminder of the juxtapositioning of life and death, they exist together and ivy binds them. It’s five-lobed leaves are said to represent the spiral dance of life and make it sacred.
Ivy was associated in ancient Egypt with Osiris, representing immortality, keeping life going through the harsh winter months. This makes sense as its one of our enduring evergreen plants that we’re so thankful for at this time of the year.
In skincare ivy is also associated with firmness, being a recommended addition to massage oil to combat cellulite. Ivy reduces the sensitivity of the peripheral nerves, for this reason ivy oil, or fresh ivy leaves, can be added to a bath, to help relieve neuritis and the skin discomfort sometimes associated with cellulite. A poultice of fresh leaves can also be used to treat swellings and a strong infusion of the leaves may soothe sunburn, or wind burn on skin, or be applied to soothe sore eyes. Other folk remedies that make use of ivy leaves include applying them to cradle cap, to burns minimising scarring, to warts and corns.
Here are a couple of ivy leaf remedies that may come in handy over Christmas:
– for a stomach ache, boil ivy leaves in vinegar and press onto your side
– for a headache, boil ivy leaves in rosewater and apply to the temples
Although not typically eaten by animals, with their natural intuitiveness, they seem to know to eat ivy when they are sick, suggesting it has medicinal properties for them. However, watch if a nanny goats eats ivy it will taint the milk they produce.
Fresh air
I’d normally give you the latin name for the plant, My Latin’s not good enough to give you a direct translation for ‘Fresh Air’ but choose which you prefer from these options:
Viridis recentis (‘green rest’)
Nudus in aere (‘in the open air’)
In this month of short days and dry air from centrally heated rooms, your skin will thank you for a quick trip outside, even ten minutes can make a big difference to your day.
Head out at first light to breathe the cold air and you may be greeted by sky of pastel pinks, oranges and blues, worth getting up for.
Head out in the middle of the day to maximise your vitamin D and enjoy whatever warming sunbeams you can find.
Head out as the sun goes down in preparation for your evening wind down. Your skin responds to the circadian rhythm and will go into repair mode with the fading light. Applying a night cream at this point helps you relax and gives your skin’s natural renewal process support before your head hits the pillow.
LIKE THE IDEA OF GATHERING YOUR OWN SKINCARE INGREDIENTS? …
… you might like to read some more.
For everything you need to know to get started with Blend-it-Yourself skincare using the plants that grow around you, see Vital Skincare by Laura Pardoe. This book takes you through the techniques and ingredients you’ll need to know to make your own natural skincare.