Ok, so the activated charcoal that’s becoming mega popular in skincare may be a bit different to the lump of coal naughty children find in their Christmas stocking, but it’s worth knowing why it’s considered such a great ingredient for blend-it-yourself skincare.
What is charcoal?
Different to the lumps of coal that come from the ground, charcoal is made from wood, heated to very high temperatures (800 to 1,200 degrees) with very low oxygen. The process removes methane, hydrogen and tar from the wood leaving mostly just carbon which reduces the weight to about a quarter of the starting point. This is the fuel that we use on BBQs, it burns cleaner and hotter than wood. At this stage it’s still not ready for skincare or medicinal use (charcoal is used to reduce the toxic effects of drug and alcohol overdose). For this is needs ‘activation’.
Activated charcoal
Activation may be done with chemicals or with steam, preferably steam for skincare use. Steaming the charcoal at a very high temperature removes the last non-carbon elements and opens up the structure and giving it a massive surface area for its size. Surface and open spaces make it very porous with the capacity to absorb other stuff – such as impurities and toxins. When we use activated charcoal in skincare, it pulls these contaminants from our skin and we can wash them away.
Why is activated charcoal so good for skincare?
The activated charcoal draws oil, dirt and other harmful substances from our skin, unclogging pores, helping improve complexion and combat acne. A little goes a long way as the activated charcoal can adsorb hundreds of times its own mass.
How can we use activated charcoal?
A simple way to include it is to add a little into your normal cleanser, just once or twice a week. This will draw out oils so be careful if you already have dry skin, only use it on the oilier areas. Make sure you rinse thoroughly.
The charcoal is more effective than most cleansers because whereas a cleanser (based on surfactants) will act on surface oils and dirt, engulfing and therefore removing them when washed away; the charcoal can draw dirt out of pores too.
How does it work?
Activated charcoal is sometimes referred to as a ‘magnet’ for dirt. In reality, it doesn’t attract like a magnet, it works more with a pulling action, like blu tack. Therefore, the activated charcoal needs to be in physical contact with the impurities to absorb them, that’s why it’s often used in masks that sit on the skin.
An activated charcoal face mask
To make a mask, blend 0.2g activated charcoal with ½ tsp (2.5g) bentonite or kaolin clay and 2tsp water.
For a more nourishing mask that counteracts the drying effect of the activated charcoal, exchange the water in this mix for plant seed oils appropriate for your skin.
If you’ve not got clay, an alternative is to blend ¼ tsp the activated charcoal powder with 3 tsp water (ideally rose water) and putting this paste on your face.
Leave masks on for about 15 minutes and wash off thoroughly with warm water, then follow with a cool rinse to close up your pores.
- Some recipes include up to ½ tbsp. activated charcoal with the quantities of oil and clay used here. I’d recommend starting at the small levels of charcoal and building up if you feel you need it to be more effective.
- For more healing comfort in your mask, add 1 tsp honey.
- To turn your mask into a scrub, add 2 tsps sugar.
Activated charcoal exfoliator
For proactive cleansing, you can use activated charcoal as an exfoliator. As well as it’s absorption properties, its grainy texture help lift and remove surface dead skin cells. Add 1/8 teaspoon of activated charcoal to 1tsp honey and 1tsp olive oil, mix to a paste. Rub this in small circles over your face for one or two minutes then rinse, pat dry and moisturise.
Activated charcoal for hair
Not surprisingly, activated charcoal is also great for hair, performing the task of pulling out dirt and pollutants. You can buy shampoos and dry shampoos formulated with charcoal, or you can add a teaspoon of activated charcoal powder to your normal shampoo. Beware, it will add colour, so you’ll probably need to rinse an extra time to avoid darkening. This is an especially good treatment if your hair’s feeling weighed down, lank and heavy, it’s probably carrying excess dirt and oil that your regular shampoo isn’t shifting. The activated charcoal will take this away without leaving a residue leaving your hair lighter and with more volume.
and in toothpaste
You might have heard of traditional recipes for natural toothpaste that involve scrubbing on charcoal. It seems incongruous at first to blacken teeth (not to mention messy and strange tasting), but a little activated charcoal mixed into toothpaste can really whiten teeth, the staining pigments that come from tea, coffee and red wine are bound up in the charcoal. Now you know why its cleaning powers are so good, occasional treatments should make a difference.
Take care
There are some cautions to be aware of when using charcoal for skincare. When cleaning, it can also bind in good things – like vitamins and minerals – so shouldn’t be used to excess and should always be accompanied by nourishing ingredients that add back the good stuff to your skin – such as plant seed oils, natural butters, honey and cacao. Also, avoid inhaling charcoal powder as it’s harmful to lungs. It’s best kept for just occasional use as it can be associated with constipation, nausea and vomiting so go carefully. O, and it can be washed off your skin so won’t stain you, but be careful of clothes, surfaces, utensils etc, which could get black in the process. Take care.
Expert advice
Many experts confirm the benefits of using activated charcoal in skincare. When activated by steam it has no chemicals in it so is suitable for even the most sensitive skin. Saved for deep cleansing and occasional detoxing it’s great for skin, hair and teeth – certainly better than chemically-laden deep-cleaners – but don’t rely on it as an everyday ingredient.
Try activated charcoal yourself
If you’re tempted to try, you can find lots of skincare products available that include activated charcoal, but you’ll be able to have more variety in using it if you buy some activated charcoal powder and add that to your normal products, or those you make from scratch. Look out for various brands of activated charcoal and check the substances its derived from, which may include nutshells, coconut husk, peat, wood, coir, signet and coal – go for the more natural sources (of course).
There’s more …Activated charcoal is also used in air filtration systems to pull out pollutants and it has traditionally been used to treat bites and stings – it’s mentioned in pharmacoeias dating back to 1500BC for treating lacerations, venomous snakebites and poison ingestion. For stings and bites, apply as a paste – by slowly adding water until it is a spreadable consistency – it can help absorb venum and reduce swelling. A paste like this can also be used, with a little honey, as a spot treatment on blackheads – leave on for 5 to 10 minutes then rinse thoroughly and pat dry.
